New Claymore owner. Hi!

edited August 13 in Say hello
Hi everyone, I've recently become the owner of a Claymore amplifier, in fairly poor cosmetic condition. It works though, and I'm a big fan of its sound! Straight away I'm hearing details in music I never knew were there for years. I understand this forum is a good knowledge base for this amplifier, and I'm looking forward to finding out more about it. I'm also interested in modifications that can be made to improve it further, but whilst I can solder and understand basic circuit diagrams I lack the skills to do work myself on something like this. At the moment there are a couple of things that need fixing straight away - the volume pot is slightly noisy, the power light wire has broken off and I can't see where it solders to, and there's a wire broken on the input selector (which is also loose and I guess not standard judging by the length of the shaft). Both knobs also missing but I can turn a pair on the lathe. Overall not too challenging work hopefully.. I'm in Essex and was wondering if anyone can give any recommendations of someone who knows these amplifiers well, who might be able to give it a service and possibly make improvements on it as well? Thanks in advance for any help! I've tried to attached links to photos. Oli http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8529.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8521.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8524.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8523.jpg

Comments

  • Oli said:

    Hi everyone,


    I've recently become the owner of a Claymore amplifier, in fairly poor cosmetic condition. It works though, and I'm a big fan of its sound! Straight away I'm hearing details in music I never knew were there for years. I understand this forum is a good knowledge base for this amplifier, and I'm looking forward to finding out more about it. I'm also interested in modifications that can be made to improve it further, but whilst I can solder and understand basic circuit diagrams I lack the skills to do work myself on something like this.


    At the moment there are a couple of things that need fixing straight away - the volume pot is slightly noisy, the power light wire has broken off and I can't see where it solders to, and there's a wire broken on the input selector (which is also loose and I guess not standard judging by the length of the shaft). Both knobs also missing but I can turn a pair on the lathe. Overall not too challenging work hopefully..


    I'm in Essex and was wondering if anyone can give any recommendations of someone who knows these amplifiers well, who might be able to give it a service and possibly make improvements on it as well?

    Thanks in advance for any help! I've tried to attached links to photos.


    Oli

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8529.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8521.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8524.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/slablane/IMG_8523.jpg

    Hi Oli,
    Welcome to the forum.
    Yes indeed, plenty of Claymore folk here.
    Lovely amp.
    You sound primed to get yours back to its best. :-)
    Colin Wonfor, the amp's designer frequents these parts (as user "Anticrap"). He may at least be able to advise.
    Hopefully he'll be along presently. Or, drop him a PM.
  • Definitely worth doing. I brought one back from the dead that had been somewhat butchered. Just a gain fault alluded me due to lack of knowledge but Colin sorted that for me.
    It's an easy enough amp to work on so if Colin can give you a "To do" list, as Df said above, then any competent engineer/ repairer will be able to sort it.

    If you're handy on a lathe you may be able to recoup some cost by offering replacement knobs to the Claymore Clan? I've seen several in the past with make-do knobs on...
  • edited August 14




    Hi Taking a look at this Claymore, it is or was a iss1 one of the very first and on 50 or so of it's kind.
    image
    image
    The first give away is the lack of Gold line around the face plate.

    image

    Next no mini Alps volume control, H-Pak Hitachi FET no Plug-In Capacitors, no MC stage to speak of.

     image

    image
  • The good news is it can with care be upgraded
  • edited August 14
    Hi guys, thanks for the welcome! Colin, thanks for re-posting my photos properly and casting your eye over it. Not often you get to hear from the person who designed your amplifier! If it helps it's identification the serial number (hand written in gold) is 10014. Very interesting to hear it's an early one! I did notice that I couldn't find a photo of another Claymore that had the selector labels above the knob, rather than to the side. Having had a closer look it appears the caps might need replacing too. Would you be interested at all in working on my Claymore? Thanks! Oli
  • Perfect, thanks! I'll send a PM
  • Just saw your link Colin - looks like you might get busy if you have the time. 
    Am also sending a PM for a Claymore I picked up a few years ago. 

    Thread here: 

    Kind regards
    Sam



     
  • No problem but do pack it well and do not use our postal non service, having used them and got broken bits, and guess what there insurance will not pay out at all.

    I now use Hermes and they will collect. Good guys.

  • Managed to see the photos before photo-chuck-it disabled the links. I never realised there was such an early version produced for sale. I've seen one before and assumed it was either a pre-production that "escaped" or a staff-build.
    Velly hinneressing (nerdy smily).
  • And before that there was a Sabre the same size as the Claymore with press button and before that a amp we called the Prelude, but Honda made a car with the same name so it was gone.

    In the world 5 old Sabre, 4 Prelude's  and Thousands of Claymore's.
    And about 50 maybe FMT and small Sabre about 200, Dirks about 100, Claymore S about 100 Claymore 2 about 1000, copies many. Oberon's a few but the design was copied by many including Magnum, and a small company called Bensley Electronics.
    Quatra by Inca Tech a few copies by Oxford Acoustic's? and copies by Lescon made in UK ? but also made by Lescon in China. Later was done via help from Mr Bullen and Russel K, both took my idea and stole it.
  • Only 50 FMT!? There was me hoping to find one....
    sold a Dirk (retail) but others only met on the net.
  • How many of the Inca Tech branded pre/power combos out there?
  • IT50, IT100,IT200, ID25,ID50 MSB, IT1P, ID1P total about 200

    Gold Claymore are very rare about 10 max Nickel Claymore about 12, Blue Claymore 5, Red Claymore 5, Pink Fluffy Claymore only 1, White Claymore about 12.

    I was busy then now I have to much slack time, looking for new ideas to play with, basically Bored stiff. Considering working for Tesco cleaning floors. 
  • edited August 31
    Oli it is alive. And it is a MK1 Claymore it did have H-PAK FET's and only about 16 where made D.O.B. 1978 And older than Dave he he he

    image
    :D

    image
  • AntiCrap said:
    Oli it is alive. And it is a MK1 Claymore it did have H-PAK FET's and only about 16 where made D.O.B. 1978 And older than Dave he he he

    image
    :D

    image
    If only...
  • The truth will come out Dave, we all see you as Sam's Toy Boy. ;)
  • The truth will come out Dave, we all see you as Sam's Toy Boy. ;)

    This MK 1 Claymore sounds amazing the first one I have seen for over 30yrs now upgraded.

    image
  • The "prodigal son" upgrade.
    Great news.
  • Here is one a made earlier 1982

     It's is now play Bolero from Ravel.
    The dynamic are just sublime, the detail is amazing and it can go VERY LOUD. (62W/Ch) my watts not music power watts.

    So it has all new electro caps, now four of 10,000uF @ 50V not four off 4,700uF @ 50V , with four new 6 Amp diodes as to 3 Amp type, new alps pot blue type, new super four FET's and four converter PCB's, a bit of paint work on corner, a Green soft LED, I hate RED.
    The Caps in the signal path are now not electro but bi-polar , much nicer. All the small caps are now 105C working not 85C this will increase the life to about 30 years.So no getting bored with it OK ??

    This one was made on the 7th March 1982. And assembled by Tine tested by Paul Fuller (a great guy and friend now gone). Made in Basildon.

    Next service in 2027 I will be then 74yrs old then ooops

    image

  • Lovely to have all the details there Col.
    Technical and personal.
  • And what is it with Wonfor Watts?
    My "50 Watt" Goodmans Magisters start to creak long before the "20 Watt" One4 does... :-/
    Not sure about my new 100 Watt DIY speakers. Will need to put in my ear plugs to see who wins the amp v speaker staring competition between those two.
  • 50W RMS the equivalent to DC power is what I use.
    i.e. 10V RMS into 10R = V*V/R = 100/10 =10W

    RMS = (PK-PK/2)*0.707
  • AntiCrap said:

    Here is one a made earlier 1982


     It's is now play Bolero from Ravel.
    The dynamic are just sublime, the detail is amazing and it can go VERY LOUD. (62W/Ch) my watts not music power watts.

    So it has all new electro caps, now four of 10,000uF @ 50V not four off 4,700uF @ 50V , with four new 6 Amp diodes as to 3 Amp type, new alps pot blue type, new super four FET's and four converter PCB's, a bit of paint work on corner, a Green soft LED, I hate RED.
    The Caps in the signal path are now not electro but bi-polar , much nicer. All the small caps are now 105C working not 85C this will increase the life to about 30 years.So no getting bored with it OK ??

    This one was made on the 7th March 1982. And assembled by Tine tested by Paul Fuller (a great guy and friend now gone). Made in Basildon.

    Next service in 2027 I will be then 74yrs old then ooops

    image

    Blimy Col, you missed a photo op there for the Retro Claymore! Would be fun to have the 3 together...
  • And leave the thin Silver TQ one out a bit unfair.

  • I was mindful not to mention that one b-(
  • edited September 2
    He he well now they have be neutered and only half a dozen  made. So soon to be extinct so no worries.
  • I heard both these amps today and they are truly excellent. Looking truly sharp too!

    I must say I prefer the character of the old '78 Claymore, it has an instantly identifiable warmth and superb timbre, if not as powerful. Great to hear the early circuit!
  • Alan said:
    I heard both these amps today and they are truly excellent. Looking truly sharp too! I must say I prefer the character of the old '78 Claymore, it has an instantly identifiable warmth and superb timbre, if not as powerful. Great to hear the early circuit!
    He tried to smuggle them out in is motor, but I caught him in time. he he
    But I am going to nick his motor next time, nice car, big but nice. 
    See you soon Alan and Family best Col and M
  • I really would! They are both lovely, but the older one has a character I haven't heard other than my old prototype FET Atom. Sweet..

    You can always get an electric buggy to go to the shops and work your magic, I expect you'll whup my car given half a chance! Lovely drive home, thanks for the CD.

    Enjoying my pimped up M50 this morning Col, it's a bit smoother now with better dynamics. Louder though through Maggie, with much less volume used than before. A passive pot will be just fine I think. Another winner... like the black finish too.
  • I can't tell you how excited I am to get this home and try it out! Thanks for the superb work Col, and for the warm welcome!
  • Ditto on the excitement front. The 1982 vintage Claymore is on its way across town as we speak. 
    Thanks a million Colin !
  • All most welcome just enjoy them, now back to Terry Pratchett and the Long Mars
  • Colin - My upgraded Claymore arrived yesterday in tip top shape. I let it warm up overnight and finally got some listening in this afternoon.

    What can I say other than a huge thank you!

    It is a new amp - power and poise in equal measures, and indeed very dynamic as you observed. I am getting bass out of my litttle Spendors that I didn't think possible, and very sweet highs. Yes it goes loud but is also engaging at more moderate 'late night' volume. I am beyond chuffed, especially knowing that it will only get better as it continues to run in and will be performing at its best for a very long time. Will have to try some EWA speaker cable for the icing on the cake.

    Photos below of the 'new' Claymore in the study system. image

    image



    image


    image

  • Just to add - the Alps volume pot is a real joy. Much better control versus the discreet steps of the previous and it appears as if there is a bit more usable range with digital sources before getting very loud. 
  • She looks beautiful Sam. Great condition.
    And sounding at least as good as she looks by the sounds of things.
    Absolutely great the Colin can rejuvenate these beauties with such love and care.
    Enjoy!
  • +1 On Colin's service.
    On a frivolous note, I like the green LED, suits it better than red. (Mine has amber).
    A nice set up there too, clean, simple and functional.
    Reminds mine is still in a box, surrounded by upheaval it has nowhere to reside at the mo.
  • Don't let it feel lonely, Chris :-)
  • Great to hear of another Claymore convert.

    So Colin, are you doing upgrades/services to them now?

    I'd really like mine looking at. I never fitted the new green FETS you sent me years back... I chickened out, decided my ability was not up to doing a proper job. Have an ALPS volume pot sitting here too waiting to go in.
    I have had it since new, and apart from a selector switch change it is all in totally in tinkered /repaired condition. To have the new FET's, ALPS pot, caps upgraded/replaced would see it run for another 30 years

    Thanks



  • Hi Neil,

    Yep new FETs and replacing caps and diodes and any nasty bits.

    Info here

  • My Claymore now parcelled up with the parts I bought (ALPS selector and volume pot) and waiting for Hermes to collect to deliver to Col to work his magic on it.    I was going to do the FETS and caps  myself, but decided my ability to set it up once that parts were fitted was beyond my equipment and ability.


  • I only use a big hammer honest ask Dave he he Thanks Neil.
  • That's when he's not jumping up and down on them with his big feet!
  • edited October 1
    Size 12 is not big for a Yeti 

    image

    Snow cone anybody

  • I could not get the tip of my 350 Watt ‘Stained glass window repair’ soldering iron between the components, even using a big hammer and grinder to reshape the tip !
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