Today is a good day.

edited January 2011 in Analogue
Thanks to the eagle eyes of a fellow member of another forum, I've just bagged myself a Pioneer PL71. Really thought I'd never have another one, or even see one again - think the auction had been running less than an hour. :D

I think it may be time to start cartridge shopping soon. :)

Comments

  • Happy days mate.  Good nick?
  • Looks reasonable Jim - photo's not much cop but he says it works fine
    and it's got the original mat which is a good thing. Small plastic badge
    missing off the front and the 45rpm centre hole adaptor's missing but
    if it runs steady, at the right speed, then it'll be fine.



    Will probably get someone who's better with a soldering iron than me
    to re-cap the psu/reg board which RD did with mine and made a
    worthwhile difference.



    Can't wait!! :-)
  • Congratulations Richard. I wish I had seen your last one in time...but I'm very happy with where I'm going now. However, a PL71 with a Decca could still tempt me!
  • Alan - the PL71 with a Decca is a storming combination, but of course I
    got rid of mine...like the plonker I am. Another great cartridge was the
    Ortofon SPU but that's a wee bit fussy about MC input on the amp as
    it's such a low output and also needs very low input impedence.



    The best my vinyl rig sounded was with the Decca SG in the PL71,
    Puresound P10 phonostage, Music First Audio Silver TVC pre-amp and a WAD
    KaT34 valve power amp. Sadly, the MFA and P10 were borrowed whilst my
    old Exposure IX psu was being repaired.
  • Well done Richard.

    It's always good to see people happy 
    :)
  • Great news.
    I've always felt as though I stood on the shoulders of giants re. my current vinyl front end - PL-71 with Decca SG. I never did my fair share of auditioning or fiddling. I just copied what some respected ears (you guys amongst them) had discovered through hard graft.
    Thanks fellas!
  • I note that you've sold the P7.  Are you keeping the Thorens Richard?
  • Hi Jim - not sure re the Thorens, depends on what the Minister For Home Affairs has to say about it.

    Would like to though - once I've got another TT the 3009 will be off to Johnnie for a service; it needs a new c/w stub rubber, the cueing damper needs re-filling and I'll get the internal wiring replaced. Thing is, the Thorens sounds really good at the moment - that pre-Imp 3009 has more control at the bottom than I've been led to believe and because it's a lot more massy than the Improved (12.5g vs 6g) it'll handle more beefy cartridges.

    I'd considered getting Russ Collinson to do me a nice maple plinth and a new armboard, get a Hercules psu etc but as the TD150's in such lovely original nick, it seems a shame to start hacking it around...

    http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e320/Gromit011/CRW_4651.jpg

    http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e320/Gromit011/CRW_4654.jpg
  • That is in good nick.  If you can try a Ringmat instead of the rubber original.  It's worked on every suspended, metal platter deck I've tried it on.  Works on the 401 as well.  Doesn't do much on non metal platters though and I'm not sure why.
  • Ringmat's in place Jim - these photos are from when I was thinking of selling it a few months ago. Got an Achromat aswell which whilst working ok on stuff like the Technics (although the jury's out on that too) there's something not quite right about it on the Thorens - it sucks out the bass somehow, but still doesn't improve pitch coherence or colour.

    You're right though - the R'mat's a cracking bit of kit. Doesn't look much, but it does work. :)


  • Well done - happy days indeed.

    Are you going for another Super Gold ?

  • I've had the Ringmat for years now, mine is the original version with two cork rings.  What I noticed some time ago is due to it being very lightweight it will gradually slide on the platter.  I proved this by marking the edge of the mat and the platter with Tippex.  The two marks will drift apart.  This suggested to me that it's not holding the LP quite still enough.  I've used 4 small pieces of masking tape to just hold the edge of the mat to the platter.

    I wasn't expecting much of anything too happen but it does sound better lightly fixed down.

    Weird eh?
  • Well, the old Pioneer has been with me now for a few days so what's it sounding like?

    Very good - that was going to be a given. The thing is, and I'm almost can't believe I'm saying this, I'm not 100% convinced it's a keeper. Adding the 103 gave it a big kick in the sonic pants and has really fleshed the sound out vs the high output DL110, the only problem is I'm getting a bit more hum from it than I'd want.

    Putting the 103 into the Thorens (well, the 3009) and it's a lot quieter so clearly the hum is being caused by something in the Pioneer. Theo very kindly let me borrow his NVA Phono1 today but that hums really badly, even with the DL110 so is pretty much unuseable which is a shame as sonically it's superb (on the loud stuff where the hum isn't obvious). Putting my hands either side of the Phono1 (not even holding it) and the hum lessens - it's almost like there's a strong hum field/interference affecting it, but I'm clueless as to what it may be. The amp is about 18" away from the P1 so it's not really near any sources of electrical noise.

    The DL110 into the MM stage on the Claymore is virtually hum-free btw.

    The bottom line is that yes, I'm on a bit of a downer with my rig at the moment - the digital side of it is sounding great, but my turntable journey's hitting some pretty darn big pot holes at the moment and it's on the verge of p*ssing me off now.
  • Richard I recall Ben having a similar problem with his 71 - something to do with the mains voltage settings 'ish ? Do you know if your's originated from the States ? I suspect after listening to Jim's superbly crafted 401 any turntable would disappoint !

    Mervyn

  • edited January 2011
    Yep I did.
    RD had overhauled mine, including the introduction of a toroidal transformer, which he had glued under the arm side of the platter (the original one was disconnected, but still in situ).
    When I reported the hum RD suggested switching back to the original. A friend of mine did the work - it was beyond me, and the hum decreased significantly.
    There is still some hum present when the arm is at rest - possibly from the switch/speed controls, but this decreases as the arm moves the super gold across the lp, and in any case is never audible during normal listening.

    Might it be worth taking a look inside to check if yours has been transformer modded...?
    Also, have you had chance to fiddle with earthing arrangements to check effects there?

    Ben
  • JimJim
    edited January 2011
    When I bought my NVA Phono 1 I was using the Minstrels.  They are about 86dB sensitive IIRC.  I had no hum problem that I could hear.  When, a few months ago, I put my Lowthers back in play I had terrible hum from the NVA.  The Lowthers are approx 99dB per 1w/1m.  So straight away I had increased any noise by at least 12dB.  I tried all sorts of positioning and it made very little difference.  And bear in mind my Decca Maroon, supposedly, produces 7.5mV output so the s/n ratio should be good.  I put my MF XLP back in play and I have very little noise.  I always have some and it's what I've gotten used to using such high sensitivity speakers.

    The NVA has an earth point but it doesn't go to earth as it uses a 2 core mains lead I think.  This is fine from a safety POV as the case is plastic/polymer what-have-you but it does mean the arm/cartridge has no point back to earth.  I heard an NVA Phono 2 in an all NVA system a few months back and there was a lot of hum.

    You could try running the arm earth lead to a true earth, maybe on the Claymore amp?

    My electronics knowledge is OK but not brilliant.  If I'm wrong then I'm sure someone will correct me.
  • @Richard: It's a shame you're getting the same hum issues that I was with the NVA Phono 1: I'm not sure how to address this. Any clues out there?
  • @Richard: It's a shame you're getting the same hum issues that I was with the NVA Phono 1: I'm not sure how to address this. Any clues out there?
    Yup - it does sound good (behind the hum) but I'm going to try running an extra earth lead from the P1 to the back of the Claymore, see if that alleviates it. I had the same problem with it when down in London, but using it at the Scalford show last year it was quiet.
  • That's odd.  I would expect a big and fairly old hotel to have, (whilst earth bonded so legally safe) an earth of higher resisitance due to the many connections around the building.
  • That's odd.  I would expect a big and fairly old hotel to have, (whilst earth bonded so legally safe) an earth of higher resisitance due to the many connections around the building.
    Exactly my thoughts Jim - I'd expected it to be a disaster but it was fine. At my place here, I'm wondering if the casue of the hum is airborne ie some kind of serious RF pick-up.

    I'll try the Phono1 with the Thorens tomorrow as I'm thinking it could be an earthing issue with the PL71 as through the Claymore's MC input the 103 hums more than is healthy, yet is pretty quiet with the Thorens/SME.
  • Ah I see.  It could be an interaction betwix the TT and the phono stage.  If so it may be worth rotating the phono stage through 90 degrees or even standing it one one end.  If it's a RF type field occuring this could disturb the field and cancel the hum.

    What is the arm lead like from the '71 arm?  Decently think?

  • Hi Jim - I've tried moving the phonostage around a bit, which helped a little, but the biggest difference was putting my hand on top of it, or just holding it by the sides. Of course on a metal-bodied phono amp that would explain the lessening in hum - ie it's me doing the earthing - but with an acrylic bodied one?

    The arm lead from the 71 is from a pair of RCA outs on the rear of the turntable so it's just a good i/c between them and phonostage. The sockets look a bit tired to be honest though. As to the arm's wring itself, it exits the arm base (wires are still in their 'thin state' at this point) and then goes to a 4-prong tag board a couple inches away. From here, a couple of very short wires (phono cable type) then go to the RCA outs on the back of the plinth. There's the usual blue/green/white/red cartridge wires plus the black arm earth wire exiting the arm's base to the tag board, with the black wire being siamesed (soldered) with the green wire on the board's tag...hope that makes sense!
  • Yup, makes sense.  I reckon a true earth will be your answer - assuming nothing's wrong with the '71.

    Although it may well be worth replacing the wires from the arm base to the phono sockets (bypassing the tag strip) with a good screened cable.  Not being suspended helps - you can't foul the movement of anything.
  • Trying to attach a screened cable to the arm's base would definitely help matters, but there's a problem in the fact that the arm's wiring exits the arm's base in the same way it does on a 3009. That's to say the wiring isn't anchored to the arm in any way - it exits the arm base through a 5mm hole and its first attachment to anything is the tag board. Some sort of 'plug' (like an RB Rega has) would need to be fabricated at the base of the arm, where the thin wiring could then terminate and enter the outside world as a fully screened phono cable.

    I'll get in touch with Johnnie7 and see if he has any solutions. :)
  • For what its worth I use an old aluminium/wooden Phono 1 with the PL71 and it does not hum. Metal over acrylic ?

    Interested to know how you get on with Origami. I was thinking of having my arm rewired with longer wires which you can attach direct to the RCA's thereby cutting out those 'phono wires' between the tag board and sockets.

     

  • Any joy running another earth lead Richard?
  • Hi Jim - nope, no difference sadly. I brought the Thorens downstairs and plugged that in - it's a goo ddeal quieter hum-wise but there's still more of it than I would consider acceptable for listening to quiet music. Still weird that when I put my hand on top of the Phono1 the hum goes quiter - that's despite the P1 sitting on the top shelf of the QS rack.

    I'm going to look into the possibility of getting the PL71's arm re-wired, with some kind of made-up plug for the arm base so there are no un-shielded wires out in the open air. I'd then have properly shielded phono leads going from the arm's base rather than using the tag board and separate RCA outs.

    Am also considering cannibalising the arm off the deck and fitting it to an armless SL1210. I know someone who's done this with great results - seems it's the arm which makes the PL71 really tick.
  • JimJim
    edited January 2011
    That's a pain mate.  So you know that the '71 creates more hum than the Thorens but it would seem the NVA stage is really at fault - I assume the phono stage in the Claymore is quiet?

    AH!  Going back to your question re fitting a longer mains lead to the '71 you said it was only 2 wires, yes?  In which case it may be worthwhile earthing out the metal parts of the deck itself.  If you find a suitable point you could run the wire into the mains plug for the deck.

    What you have at the moment is no earth at all for the TT/cartridge or phono stage.  I suspect the Thorens is quieter because the motor/top plate is earthed at the mains plug - you're now going to tell me the Thorens has two-core mains cable as well :)
  • You know - I'm going to wait for this technology to be ready before I take the analogue plunge - this all sounds so hit & miss. I expect that soon TTs will be suitably developed so this faffing about won't be needed!

    It's almost as bad a computer audio...
    ~X( :-"
  • :-)) :-)) :-))
  • I'm pleased my Whest phono stage is quieter than the NVA :)

    A silly one, but it has worked for me in the past: a sheet of aluminium foil over the NVA. Might be worth a try...

  • Hi Jim - indeed, the Thorens has just a 2-core mains cable. I guess earthing the turntable's own metal parts, through a 3-core mains cable, could be worth a shot although I've been having a chat with Speedysteve (he of the gorgeous counterweights and 12" converted R200 Rega) and he maintains the 71's arm has poor earthing arrangements - the bearing housing isn't earthed particularly well for instance.

    He converted an R200 to a cardas plug & socket arrangement at the base of the arm so he's going to have a god at doing something similar with the PL71's (which is of very similar design).

    After this, I'm on the look-out for a cheapish SL1210 where the Pioneer's arm will find a new home. For what I paid for the Pioneer, I'm not bothered if it gets cannibalised to be honest, and as I know the 71's arm is a superb sounding piece of kit (and a Decca works beautifully in it) I think it, in combination with the Tecchy motor unit, would be a bit of a killer turnable.
  • OK.  Sounds like a combination of slightly iffy earthing on the '71 arm and a tendency for the NVA to hum due yo  poor earthing.  What's the '71 like through the Claymore?

    Steve does do interesting DIY.  I went to his place last summer with a mate to hear the GRFs.  Sounded good but Tannoys are not my thing really.

    I saw his Terminator clone which I believe he's just sold on.  I also heard the SP10/12" R200/SPU.
  • I'd agree re Tannoys - fun in their own way, but for me I've not heard a set yet that made me want to buy them. Too coloured, too lacking in realism for my cuppa - they always sound like a posh PA rig to me (ducks and hides!).

    Sorry, meant to say the 71's fine into the Claymore using an MM or output MC cartridge, although there is a tiny bit of hum if the volume's cranked right up (further than would be listened to it at). The 103 though hums way more than is acceptable - and it's this which I'm really trying to alleviate, and from past experience the 103 it usually a very quiet cartridge, electrically.
  • So it's mostly down to the NVA.  That matches my experience here.  My Musical Fidelity XLP is all but silent.  I agree re the 103, one of the quietest MCs I've ever used.
  • Yup - the Phono1's certainly not useable at the moment, although I do know it can be quiet as this is in fact the P1 I owned before selling it on to Theo (thanks for the loan of it Theo - must pop it back to you!).

    The MC input on the Claymore's ok - its sound is superb - but it's still not ideal with the 103 as in quiet music the hum is too obvious to be acceptable. Putting the 103 into the 3009 on the TD150 and it's fine - hence the quest to 'quieten' the PL71 down. I'll be removing the arm from the '71 tonight so will be trying the 103 in the Thorens for a while - it'll also convince the missus that I really DO need to have 2 turntables in the house. :)
  • JimJim
    edited January 2011
    Can never have enough TTs mate

    B-)

    Is the SME OK with the the 103?  I always thought the 103 was too heavy?
  • It's a bit borderline Jim, but it balances out ok - using one of the extra weights I had made up for the PL71 which fit quite neatly when Blu-tak'd to the main counterweight on the 3009.
  • edited January 2011
    Richard, pop the NVA into a large biscuit tin and asses what happens to the hum. If you can get the lid partially on allowing for the cables then try that also. If that helps, run a wire from the tin to the earth post on your amplifier and see if that makes things even better.




    Naturally I'm not suggesting you use it like this permanently
    ;)

  • nb Please take this as an opportunity to eat all the biscuits  :-D
  • Richard, pop the NVA into a large biscuit tin and asses what happens to the hum. If you can get the lid partially on allowing for the cables then try that also. If that helps, run a wire from the tin to the earth post on your amplifier and see if that makes things even better.


    Naturally I'm not suggesting you use it like this permanently
    ;)

    Not sure Mr Dunn would approve of sticking his amps in a biscuit tin !!! Be it on your own head.
  • Richard, pop the NVA into a large biscuit tin and asses what happens to the hum. If you can get the lid partially on allowing for the cables then try that also. If that helps, run a wire from the tin to the earth post on your amplifier and see if that makes things even better.


    Naturally I'm not suggesting you use it like this permanently
    ;)

    Not sure Mr Dunn would approve of sticking his amps in a biscuit tin !!! Be it on your own head.
    He certainly wont, but this is just to isolate the cause of the problem.
    If it makes little/no difference we can eliminate screening and look at other possible causes.
Sign In or Register to comment.