IncaTech Claymore Function Switch
Good evening all from a first time poster,
This seems to be the place for advice about Claymore amps. I've just inherited one (S/N 62262) and it's a great sounding device.
However, the function switch is on its last legs and looks like a fairly straightforward fix. (I've spent years fixing up vintage Beomasters, so this is slightly new territory).
This subject has come up in various threads, but I'm not 100% clear what I need to fit as a replacement. What's on there now is a Lorlin 2 pole 6 position rotary switch, standard imperial. So far, so standard.
What I'm not sure of is whether to use a shorting or non-shorting switch though I dare say it wouldn't make a lot of difference. I would like to stick to what was originally used if poss.
I would also like to use the gold plated version - if the plating extends to the switch contacts - but I don't think RS or Farnell stock these.
I'd appreciate any guidance. It will be nice to be able to listen to both channels on Phono without manipulating the switch.
Many thanks,
Simon
This seems to be the place for advice about Claymore amps. I've just inherited one (S/N 62262) and it's a great sounding device.
However, the function switch is on its last legs and looks like a fairly straightforward fix. (I've spent years fixing up vintage Beomasters, so this is slightly new territory).
This subject has come up in various threads, but I'm not 100% clear what I need to fit as a replacement. What's on there now is a Lorlin 2 pole 6 position rotary switch, standard imperial. So far, so standard.
What I'm not sure of is whether to use a shorting or non-shorting switch though I dare say it wouldn't make a lot of difference. I would like to stick to what was originally used if poss.
I would also like to use the gold plated version - if the plating extends to the switch contacts - but I don't think RS or Farnell stock these.
I'd appreciate any guidance. It will be nice to be able to listen to both channels on Phono without manipulating the switch.
Many thanks,
Simon
Comments
Colin will tell you from the serial number what issue your amp is. This will effect the significance of a gold switch, newer models used a normal line level switch whereas older ones used a "chip command" (My terminology). The former may arguably benefit, the latter not.
The one that's in there doesn't look gold plated; in fact it's quite oxidised. I'm not even sure that gold plated switches are available except to special order.
There's no issue number that I can see. I don't think it's a chip command device as the input/tape-out traces run front to back via some 10k feed resistors.
The line switch part of the board looks like...
https://images.app.goo.gl/Cb3KuvnUC3iwc3xd7
The chip version is...
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff380/SamS59/Inca Tech Claymore/IMG_6672_zpsd08d2577.jpg
Lorlin say that the gold plated switch is not stocked by distributors and is only available to special order with a mor of 40 units and priced at a fiver each (plus the VAT, presumably).
Easy enough to determine what's on there already with a multimeter if I can find two adjacent positions that aren't knackered.
Seems a pity to replace a part with something that's less than optimal.
Ten week lead time, by the way.
This looks like the signal through the switch version.