On quickies advice I've got some 10mm aluminium bar coming so should be able to complete my build soon. Getting impatient seeing all these finished projects! I'll try and get some piccies up once it's done.
When I was at a youth club a few week ago OK years ago we had a visit to Amsterdam and the girls walked through our dormitory like that but I was reading Wireless World and missed it every day (yer right phew) into the shower and out. And before breakfast.
I have costed up the build for the PSU PCB's at £95.00 each + PP the max current is 6A with current fold back, this will charge the caps much slower and reduce the thump on most amps have in this style of design, the soft anti thump relay is now removed reducing costs and sounding better.
As you may be aware this PCB has SMD parts OK 1206 SMD parts and I felt it may be to hard for some folk, but I am happy to say those who have made it did a great job well done there is more projects soon.
Some with smaller SMD parts and some leaded beasties. have fun.
Thanks Colin, I'm starting my build this week. Is the Bom still the same, I understand you are using new fets, do you have a link to these? Cheers matey.
I've got the pcbs and fets mounted to the heatsinks now. Just need to wire them up and set the current etc. sorry for all the questions but could someone remind me of the power connections to the amp boards. The wires are yello, orange, red and black.
Hi those colours are from the transformers on the BOM. The transformer shows yellow 17.5v orange 0v and red 17.5 black 0v but being ac I wasn't sure what to make of that. Presumably the two 17.5v go to the ac connections and the 0v go to the two 0v connections on the board, but I thought it was safer to check.
Not killed one, my enquiry was........ On the original bom you listed some fets, a few months later you said you found some better fets that were a bit more expensive but sound better, sooooooo, the link above is that for the better more expensive fets? Comprende
Thanks Colin that pic is useful. My slow functioning brain had not twigged that the power supply boards also need to use heatsinks. I'm wondering now if the heatsinks in my case (same as Ben's) are up to task of dissipating the heat from one amp and one PSU board per side? Ben has the amp board's aluminium plate spanning both heatsinks. What I could do is run a larger piece of aluminium plate (full length of heatsinks for example), and then mount the amp and PSU boards onto it. Would that work?
It's alive! I now have sounds from both channels. Only through some old speakers and via an iPhone at the moment whilst I wait for a preamp to arrive. Many thanks to Col for the design, and everyone else for their help. I'll add some photos when I can get to my PC.
I have the PSU boards too but they're not fully built yet So thought I'd run without them for a while and see what they add when I fit them. Good luck with your build do you have psu boards too?
Comments
A little easier to put together then the stereo amp, as a bit more space !
Should be up and running by the weekend, but the other channel will be a few weeks yet.
Spec for TO-247's is 1.1 nm (yes i'm anal and use a torque wrench)
Is the Bom still the same, I understand you are using new fets, do you have a link to these? Cheers matey.
Many thanks, Si
Cheers
Cheers, Si
On the original bom you listed some fets, a few months later you said you found some better fets that were a bit more expensive but sound better, sooooooo, the link above is that for the better more expensive fets? Comprende
They need to be connected in series, so your orange/red become the centre tap (0v)
The other ends (yellow/black) go to AC.
^:)^
https://flic.kr/p/y1PQn5
The amp board is still spanning both heatsinks, but obviously PSU is sharing one of the heatsinks.
I haven't the foggiest why, TBH.