Inca Tech Claymore Mods and Repair Thread

NeilP

Starter thread  for Claymore 1 Repairs and Mods

I am starting this because I can't find a central repository for all the mods, upgrades and repair advice that can or need to be done on the Claymore 1

maybe keep this thread just for the Claymore 1 and start  seperate threads for other versions?

maybe different threads for different boards issues?

Schematics online..to save Colin  PM'ing them all the time unless he wants to keep it that way? Copyright etc Colin?

Annotated photos of the boards for the less tech inclined so we ( I ) can identify parts / test points for fault finding etc.

What voltage shoudl be were on a normal system etc..to aid in finding probelsm

list of mods I have found so far :

Replace caps for bigger..15,000μF especially if the old ones have started to bulge and leak

Op-amps..fit gold plated sockets and replace with newer types

Change volume pot to ALPS types

Replace internal wiring

Replace or remove and hard wire the Lucas style crimp connectors with hard wiring

Wiring Pre-out sockets to the two spare back plane holes..where to take the taps from.

Replacement of MOSFETs what is now available

Setting Bias current.  "How to..." needed..

Selector switch...source for a better quality one?..I have had to replace mine twice now in the  25 years I have owned mine.  

Replaced with  RS Cmponents  Lorlin wafer switch..looks like original  RS p/N 665-196 

Adding another input.  The front wafer switch is a 2pole 6 way, but since only 4 are used..what is required to add another input.

is it just  a straight feed from back panel to front selector via a 10kΩ resistor or am I missing  something?

replacement transformer part numbers etc.

replace 3A with 6A rectifier...(maybe different edition..mine seems to have 1N54?? diodes)

Colin...maybe a list of serial numbers referenced to Issue number 

uglymusic

If Col is happy for the schematics to appear here, we can host them on this server. Just send them to me and I'll upload them.

uglymusic

Good news!

Colin has very generously let us have the circuit diagrams to the Claymore.

Alan

What a top chap! I wonder what all those squiggles are?

NeilP

When I find out I'll let you know

Docfoster

I love things like that. No idea what they mean though. None at all.
I may need to find out tho'. Apparently one of the channels of my Claymore is distorting in PAC's system...

NeilP

Having looked through the schematics, I am having difficulty tying them all in to each other, seeing where and how each one relates to each other.

I may yet..if I ever find the time, do a complete reverse engineer from the board I have..copying in the schematics Colin has provided when I see how they fit in with each other.

Edit :  I have a piece of free Windows schematic software  ExpressPCB and I was thinking of creating the schematic in that, I looked over  the board quickly last night and to be honest it is a bit more than I can do, should not have opened my mouth so soon.

Colin

Hi Neil,

Go to the LTC website down load there Sim program easy to use.

http://www.linear.com/designtools/software/#LTspice

Setting IQ up you need to do this.The procedure is as follows.

CD 10KHz at 200mV approx, volume low insure no DC offset (low) 8 ohm load resistor set output via volume to 2Vpk-pk at that point set IQ preset to S/C position then adjust until visible  distortion has gone. but do keep a eye on temp rise.

That is the best and quickest way ,now repeat for other channel.

Then check volts across IQ pot it maybe has high has 3.6V but this will depend on FETs. If you see any oscillation switch OFF, and investigate.

Some FETs need a high value of gate resistor on Hitachi and Toshiba 270R is the norm on others is can be as high as 1KR.

I hope this helps.

 

Best Colin

 

NeilP

Thanks Colin

I think this could be a bit beyond my capabilities without a bit more hand holding, but only if you have time.

I have just acquired a scope.  not even fired it up yet, and last used one 25 years ago as a student.  I do not have the amp in front of me at the moment, and not sure of some of the terms you have used

I am guessing IQ is short hand for Bias Current? 

CD 10kHz?  oK so 10 khz signal..but in put where ..is CD a point on the board?

Ah..my ambulance with the patient has just arrived..doing a Oxford Jersey run..gotta run

Docfoster

Distorting on one channel. Other channel fine.
Any ideas how I can the hole shabang singing in stereo again....?

Brain_Dead

It sound like one of the FET,s has gone to silicon heaven , to replace is not hard  Paul Q is the best lad to do that and I have with luck given him a few bits to help.

Both will need to be replaced. But check fuse first.

Docfoster

Thanks col'. PM sent.

Brain_Dead

Neil,

FETs should have got to you now, have they ?

Col

NeilP

no, nothing yet

Brain_Dead

mmm 8 days and not there by Post in Jiffy bag.

If not there by Sat tell me please.

NeilP

OK, so posting up a bit of info here to help those that come after.Col sent me some FETS to replace the originals.Pinout seems different to the originals that I have in my Issue 6 board, so allowance will need to be made to that
Black ones (TR5) (K414) are replaced with BUZ900P's  N Channel 8A 160V RS 841-047

Green ones (TR6) (J119) are replaced with BUZ905P's  P Channel 8A 160V RS 841-104  

Other P/N's as I get them from Paul Quick

Smoothing Caps 10,000μF 50V TSUP  RS p/n 339-6887

Rectifier diodes 6A  RS p/n700-1202

I'll add more to this as I get more p/n

mattlynch

  hi fella's , not been on chews for a long time , hope you are all well and enjoying the music, i know this is quite an old thread but though i would reheat it as i am about to start doing a few mods to my old Claymore amp , i have added a few pics of the actual amp internals to hopefully shed a little light on Col's circuit diagrams above , i have taken the pics to show the different parts of the circuit , phono stage, line/pre and power supply /power amp stage , you may notice that my amp has had one of the fets replaced with a similar item , this has come as a relief as i though my hearing was wonky in one ear , turns out its the amp and not the ear , first up is the dodgy selector switch which is shot, i think i will be replacing the wiring that runs to it too, , the volume pot will be getting replaced with an alps blue if i can get one in the correct value, 10K if the markings on the original are correct , i wont be replacing the fets as i cant get hold of any unless Mr Quick has a couple going spare . more soon , 

NeilP

Sorry i can't help more other than say when you replace the selector ry to replace with something better, the standard sort are poor.

Since I had my amp in 1987 /88, I think I have replaced that selector three times, those little wafer switches are just ...crap.

If you do find a better replacement, let us know the p/n  type etc

Thanks

xtro

finding alps blue volume easy any body know with what to replace selector switch with

mattlynch

hi NeilP ,

it is the cheapest switch around for sure , mine is still on its original switch and only started playing up in the last year,given how cheap they are and how easy it is to replace them its not such a huge deal,, i will be using the same type again for now, then, once i have fitted the alps blue velvet pot and tuned the phono stage a little and had all the fets replaced i will have a go at finding a 'better' switch , for now its a case of getting all the worn parts replaced then start work on improving it. 

you may have noticed from the pics that i have already had the electrolytic's and bulk supply done by Mr Quick , the amp had a rep for being quite 'grippy' but with the power supply up rated its quite amazing , its the only amp i have ever owned that can run with the volume turned all the way to the end stop ( albeit with a fairly benign 8 ohm load )  and not sound all that flustered , will post updates here and let you know what switch i end up using as an 'upgrade' , most likely will end up with an alps item as the one in my Nakamichi pre amp is still perfect,

all the best for now,

matt

xtro

input selector ref rs components part no 320-720 £1.29

Colin

  hi fella's , not been on chews for a long time , hope you are all well and enjoying the music, i know this is quite an old thread but though i would reheat it as i am about to start doing a few mods to my old Claymore amp , i have added a few pics of the actual amp internals to hopefully shed a little light on Col's circuit diagrams above , i have taken the pics to show the different parts of the circuit , phono stage, line/pre and power supply /power amp stage , you may notice that my amp has had one of the fets replaced with a similar item , this has come as a relief as i though my hearing was wonky in one ear , turns out its the amp and not the ear , first up is the dodgy selector switch which is shot, i think i will be replacing the wiring that runs to it too, , the volume pot will be getting replaced with an alps blue if i can get one in the correct value, 10K if the markings on the original are correct , i wont be replacing the fets as i cant get hold of any unless Mr Quick has a couple going spare . more soon , 

50K to 10K will do Matt for the volume pot

mattlynch

cheers Col, ordered a 10k blue velvet , need to find the best recipe for the phono stage upgrade , been reading various threads on the subject , any recommendations for a particular brand of chips for the job? (no, not that type of chips , with salt and vinegar ,mmmmmm ;-) ) , should i fit sockets to allow easy swapping of the op amps to test various types? hope all the bruises have healed after your evil kinevel  moment on your supped up leccy bike, (i told you its just not possible to jump the English channel :-b )

Colin

English Channel was easy it was the Grand Canyon here in Somerset that was hard, socket good idea.

I like the AD797 chips they seem to perform and sound the best in this circuit.

mattlynch

as always , thankyou very much mate 

NeilP

Leccy bike Colin?

what happened?
how fast were you going?
My e-bike is capable of 55 mph ..and it was still pulling at that speed...100volt 140amp 18FET 4110 controller running a Xlyte 5304 in 26 inch wheel.

Colin

Neil, I was stopped, and a truck came by and the wind from the truck pushed me of into a iron gate, and I got a cracked rib.

Yours sound like fun mine only does 35MPH flat out and only when  I bypass the hall effect sensor with a magnet.

It a "A2B Hybrid 24"" it a bit heavy but then so I am I he he

Colin

Is this you one here.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=39802

NeilP

One of my fun builds, yes....that was capable of 30 mph...scary with that front wheel.

That was with 18 FET xlyte controller, 100 volts and the motor was from a Thompson 'Euro Tourer' ...re-laced in to a 16 ich wheel

This is the bike

Half way down this thread

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29958&hilit=torque

xtro

have purchased a alps 2 pole 6 way rotory switch from eBay only two mor left £11.50 inc postage

NeilP

can't find it using

alps 2 pole 6 way rotory switch

as search term...any chance of linbk to your item?

xtro

type Classic made in japan alps

Colin

Use a Gold plated C&K Lorlin switch, http://uk.farnell.com/lorlin/ck1035/switch-2pole-6-pos/dp/1123691

xtro

ok

NeilP

 socket good idea.

I like the AD797 chips they seem to perform and sound the best in this circuit.

I you do start changing chips, once swapped is there any  re setup procedure required, or should they just work as direct swap.

I am very rusty with regard to all of this...43 now...last time i played with anything like this was my electronics at school and while doing a bit of amateur radio building, probably 20 years ago.

 

xtro

http://bit.ly/1fTpTLm
link to alps blue volume control on eBay

xtro

this one nice green mains cable copper braid and Teflon sheild ideal to use as a faraday cage through out cable if braid connected to earth only at plug end
http://bit.ly/1cTLxLK

mattlynch

thanks for the links xtro , quick question, whats the best way you have found to separate the heat sinks from the chassis base 

cheers ,  

Colin

Un-screw the four self tapping screw in the centre of the chassis and it will come out when you remove the circuit board, there is  five other screw that hold the PCB in, on later version the Transformer was also fixed via a M5 bolt. Remove Knobs un-screw selector switch. Slide PCB as whole to the back and lift when volume shaft is clear up from the front.

Making sure it is OFF and un-pluged release four wire from ON/OFF switch. Before lifting PCB.

Easy when you done one or two.

mattlynch

thanks Col, mine is a little stuck , i might try putting the four screws back in a couple of turns and use them to unseat the heat sinks , the transfer compound seams to be quite well bonded to the chassis base so the board wont just lift without flexing , defo have all the fixings removed and i dont want to delaminate or break one of the tracks or components , will have a go at it again tomorrow when im back in the workshop ,

all the best for now , 

quickie

Big hammer )

Colin

Big hammer )

Yep that will work K.I.S.S. rules works every time.  )

uglymusic

A kiss with a big hammer? :-O

mattlynch

) cheers fella's , i have one of those , got the chassis in a vice and giving it a whack , is the board supposed to come out in eight pieces ?

xtro

don't think so but if you use coloured glue could make it look like marble when back togeather
this link for blue alps 2 pole 6 way selector switch
http://bit.ly/1fSktQH

Colin

A kiss with a big hammer? :-O

No use a Plastic Hammer the type that come in the plastic box and glue for trainee engineers and glue.

:O)

NeilP

I ended up with two of the 2 pole 6 way selectors  as linked to above...e-bay and then christmas postage balls up..So I ordered a second.

If any one in the UK wants it, send me a mail

neil  at Paisnel.je  

Colin

Hi Col, when changing FET's on the Claymore, is it advisable to change the plastic pads to ceramic pads? If so, where is the best place to get them, part numbers etc?

Hi Mark,

Change them yes, the originals where MICA. SIL PADS are OK but not as good, Ceramic are best all from Farnell, RS and maybe Maplin for TO247 or TOP3P packages.

uglymusic

It's a bit too early for the pub  ~O)

uglymusic

See you there. Usual place :-)

NeilP

Mark, what exactly do yo need to know.

I can get some pics of the wiring from mine to the pot for you