Umm Sounds like I'd need to take the amp apart to actually trace the tracks back which is a bit beyond what I am prepared to do until I need to do further work to mine. I will take the top off and see if I can see anything of use, but did you find the schematics that were posted?, maybe this thread or another somewhere else on here.
You should stand a chance of tracing back from there.
Where you interested in the Alps selector I have spare? I ordered one but ended up with two by mistake .
I'd need to see what I paid. Like to at least get my money back.
I'll open amp up in morning, it is at my fathers house at moment and can't go round there till a more reasonable time of day. Not sure where you are, but here it is about 2.30 in morning, and I can't sleep. Not sure my father would appreciate being woken so I can strip my amp
Over the years, I have replaced that selector three times, not which is why I went for an Alps. As yet, I have not fitted either the Alps selector or volume pot yet.
In fact, now I think about it...... did I ever swap the FET's.... I know I was going to... maybe the amp is still apart. I got to a stage where I began to doubt my ability to set it up again correctly and was too fearful of screwing it up. I got to the stage of thinking about swapping the op-amps, fitting sockets for them etc, then pulled up short realising my abilities were not as advanced as my ideas.
I have had mine since new, bought in mid80's in Rayleigh HiFi in Chelmsford and don't want to kill it by tinkering with things I barely understand.
Soldering iron is now merely used for warming the tea. .
I can't use the amp in my apartment, no space for a ' music' section The previous setup, when I last used it, (to allow TV, DVD, Sky box, CD, MD, Tape. Apple TV, and computer audio) was such a fearful collection of switching combos to get anything to route audio into the amp Aux input, that my partner could never get any sound when I was away from home. This has resulted in a big new shiny all in one self source selecting run of the mill surround sound amp that she can work when I am not home.
Used to fly in to Bristol frequently when I worked for BlueIslands airline Not so much now. Just spent 11 days In Exeter, got back to Jersey this evening.
I am seriously considering asking someone like Paul if he will do mine for me. I have the ability to remove and replace components, but not the knowledge to set it all up again on the scope when the.parts are fitted, I know my limits and I think I have reached mine.
Gggrrr bloody typo 's , it's been modified by Colin to a switchable pre amp to use with the Toca 20W
Modified, it must have been a hell of a long time ago, Mark. The last one I saw was Ben's, which I was temped to hide and say it got lost in the post. But Ben has now securely hidden it at Suzy's house. [..]
I bet if i opened it up, i'd find all the insides stripped out and replaced with the amp module of some 80s Sansui midi system... You bastard, Wonfor. ;-)
I bet if i opened it up, i'd find all the insides stripped out and replaced with the amp module of some 80s Sansui midi system... You bastard, Wonfor. ;-)
No Ben Sinclair amps the best in the world, and used by all the best amp manufactures
I bet if i opened it up, i'd find all the insides stripped out and replaced with the amp module of some 80s Sansui midi system... You bastard, Wonfor. ;-)
No Ben Sinclair amps the best in the world, and used by all the best amp manufactures
Hi all. Feel so lucky to have discovered this site/thread. I have had a Claymore since around 1985. At the time I listened to a few amps but this was the jewel. Anyway fast forward 29 years and I have a problem with the rotary selector. I remember reading that this was a cmos switch but it seems that a standard rotary type can be used? Radio/aux and phono output is fine but CD gives a greater output to the left channel. If I switch to another source then the CD can be heard whether or not the other source is playing I've swopped speakers and problem reverses so I don't think it's the speakers or the amp itself.
I find the volume has always been high in relation to the knob position - Click 3 or 4 seems to give as much as I am able to use when there are 40 clicks (with Tannoy mercury speakers which are quite efficient) Is there anyway to alter this?
I'm still using a Linn Axix TT with K9 cartridge - soon being changed to a Grado black and a Micromega stage 1 from the same era
Hi all, first time post here. Very pleased I came across this, though dredging it up a bit from the last post 4 years back. I bought a Inca Tech Claymore a little while ago and it's been superb. Beats any modern amp I've had hands down. But I could do with some advice. One of the speakers is not working. It's certainly the amp as its not the same side in each channel. On phono it's the right, on Aux it's the left. I've done nothing to explore the problem, yet. Not adverse to wielding a soldering iron, but equally happy sending iit to an expert for an all round service / repair. Does anyone have any advice for my first, tentative steps?
Hi all, first time post here. Very pleased I came across this, though dredging it up a bit from the last post 4 years back. I bought a Inca Tech Claymore a little while ago and it's been superb. Beats any modern amp I've had hands down. But I could do with some advice. One of the speakers is not working. It's certainly the amp as its not the same side in each channel. On phono it's the right, on Aux it's the left. I've done nothing to explore the problem, yet. Not adverse to wielding a soldering iron, but equally happy sending iit to an expert for an all round service / repair. Does anyone have any advice for my first, tentative steps?
I'm flummoxed by how the fault switches between channels depending on input. But then again, I am just a Claymore user. Hopefully Colin will pop up soon with some proper advice.
What happens if you switch your Aux source to the tape or CD input?
Hi Docfoster. It actually worked perfectly on CD. For about a minute and then died completely.... on lifting the hood it was clear both 315ma speaker fuses were blown. So I’ll replace them and see if it’s all resolved. Everything else looked incredibly clean and tidy, so fingers crossed it was just a blown fuse all along.
Hopefully whatever caused the fuses to blow wasn't a serious or permanent fault elsewhere in the amp. If so, and the new fuses pop too, I'm sure Colin will be able to help.
Keep us posted re how you get on with replacement fuses in place.
While the lid is off, you can read the ISSx number (issue number).
If memory serves right ISS1 to 5 use a chip based switching system for inputs, with the rotary switch as commander and the ISS6 just uses a standard rotary switch. Would help with diagnosis if you continue to have trouble.
With age in mind that rotary switch is already on the suspect list.
Fuses finally arrived this morning (RIP Maplins - nowhere to buy 315ma fuses over a counter now...). Pleased to say the amp is back up and running across both channels and on all inputs. However I did blow the fuses once again when I accidentally had the volume too high when switching inputs. Which makes me think there must be a fault elsewhere. It was loud but not very loud. I’ll keep it at more enjoyable levels and see if any problems arise again. It’s an ISS6 btw, so if the rotary switch does need a change it’s probably within my capabilities. The amp has only been out of action a week, but I’ve missed it!
Interesting... I’m certainly no expert, but based on what you write, that selector switch does look like a suspect, as CJ predicted. At least you can get something out of the amp atm. You’ll have to stick to one source! :-D
Very pleased to say that replacing the input selector switch was both pretty straightforward and successful! Everything working as it should again. And for all of 3 quid! AntiCrap - I just replaced like with like. Should I go with 500ma fuses?
Very pleased to say that replacing the input selector switch was both pretty straightforward and successful! Everything working as it should again. And for all of 3 quid!
Nice one Jack. Another Lazarus job on one of these great amps. :-)
Hi again all. My first few tentative steps into repairing my claymore has inspired further cautious steps... I’d like to replace the volume pot as, from reading this thread, it could be worth upgrading. Potentially a basic question, but how does one remove the current pot? Do I need to remove the circuit board? Grateful for any advice from anyone more experienced.
Yes you do and it is not easy, if not careful the mounts and wire break. I would NOT recommend you do it I have seen so many F----ed Claymore because idiots thought they knew best, and without care or knowledge made a right mess. So I do NOT recommend unless you have had lots and lots of experience in this field.
I vouch for that! My Claymore was obtained as DOA and one of the problems was that the previous hack had messed up the board tracks feeding the vol pot.(I did replace my pot but it involved using fly leads to the nearest good sections of track).
As Colin says, the board must come out, if you are not used to doing this kind of thing find someone qualified instead.
Ok, sound advice - thank you both. I think I’ll keep limping on with the amp as it is. Having a few problems with one channel occassionally. Could anyone recommend who/where could do any repairs I might want further down the line? While not averse to wielding a soldering iron I’m not experienced enough to be confident and enjoy the amp too much to experiment.
Hi all. Sorry for the very delayed response. I’ve been away a while and had sat down long enough to write this. First, it was an absolute pleasure meeting you Col. it was a fascinating few hours spent in the shed talking about all your various projects. And a real treat to hand back to you an amp I’ve enjoyed so much. I know love it much more, with the upgrades you made. I really wish I had the skill, knowledge and experience to properly understand what changes you made - I’m not much of an engineer. But whatever you did, I’ve rediscovered a lot of my music collection. It brings out many more layers that were previously in the background. The accuracy and separation at lower volumes are particularly improved. I’ll continue loving this amp. I’ve often thought about buying a new, modern amp. But that would be measured against my Claymore, and nothing I’ve tried at the price point I can afford comes close.
I’ve managed to blow one of the 3.15ma speaker fuses a couple of times. Very easy to replace, but I wonder if there remains a fault in the circuit board somewhere.
Hope all well Colin, and your various projects are marching on. It was fascinating meeting you. And hope our paths cross again soon. All the best.
Do you mean the DC out of the + - speaker terminals? It blew at relatively high volume, but not very loud. I’ve replaced it with fast blow fuses. Shouldn’t I use something else?
If no DC with no signal on speaker terminal all is well. 3.125A will give a max OP of about 30W and peaks of about 70W. So replace with a FB Ceramic 5A.
Comments
Sounds like I'd need to take the amp apart to actually trace the tracks back which is a bit beyond what I am prepared to do until I need to do further work to mine.
I will take the top off and see if I can see anything of use, but did you find the schematics that were posted?, maybe this thread or another somewhere else on here.
You should stand a chance of tracing back from there.
Where you interested in the Alps selector I have spare? I ordered one but ended up with two by mistake .
I'll open amp up in morning, it is at my fathers house at moment and can't go round there till a more reasonable time of day. Not sure where you are, but here it is about 2.30 in morning, and I can't sleep. Not sure my father would appreciate being woken so I can strip my amp
In fact, now I think about it...... did I ever swap the FET's.... I know I was going to... maybe the amp is still apart. I got to a stage where I began to doubt my ability to set it up again correctly and was too fearful of screwing it up. I got to the stage of thinking about swapping the op-amps, fitting sockets for them etc, then pulled up short realising my abilities were not as advanced as my ideas.
I have had mine since new, bought in mid80's in Rayleigh HiFi in Chelmsford and don't want to kill it by tinkering with things I barely understand.
Soldering iron is now merely used for warming the tea.
I can't use the amp in my apartment, no space for a ' music' section The previous setup, when I last used it, (to allow TV, DVD, Sky box, CD, MD, Tape. Apple TV, and computer audio) was such a fearful collection of switching combos to get anything to route audio into the amp Aux input, that my partner could never get any sound when I was away from home. This has resulted in a big new shiny all in one self source selecting run of the mill surround sound amp that she can work when I am not home.
I am seriously considering asking someone like Paul if he will do mine for me. I have the ability to remove and replace components, but not the knowledge to set it all up again on the scope when the.parts are fitted, I know my limits and I think I have reached mine.
You bastard, Wonfor.
;-)
^:)^
I feel uncomfortable about taking mine to bits.. :-/
But I don't know how. :-/
But then again, I am just a Claymore user. Hopefully Colin will pop up soon with some proper advice.
What happens if you switch your Aux source to the tape or CD input?
Hopefully whatever caused the fuses to blow wasn't a serious or permanent fault elsewhere in the amp.
If so, and the new fuses pop too, I'm sure Colin will be able to help.
Keep us posted re how you get on with replacement fuses in place.
I’m certainly no expert, but based on what you write, that selector switch does look like a suspect, as CJ predicted.
At least you can get something out of the amp atm. You’ll have to stick to one source! :-D
Another Lazarus job on one of these great amps. :-)
I would NOT recommend you do it I have seen so many F----ed Claymore because idiots thought they knew best, and without care or knowledge made a right mess.
So I do NOT recommend unless you have had lots and lots of experience in this field.
How does it sound with these new FET,s?
I’ve managed to blow one of the 3.15ma speaker fuses a couple of times. Very easy to replace, but I wonder if there remains a fault in the circuit board somewhere.
Hope all well Colin, and your various projects are marching on. It was fascinating meeting you. And hope our paths cross again soon. All the best.
Jack
Does it blow at high level or all the time?
3.15A is it fast blow?
Most have 5A.
3.125A will give a max OP of about 30W and peaks of about 70W. So replace with a FB Ceramic 5A.
Our version of kit burning was NAF Now All Fried.